Information available upon request 

• HYLLUS DIARDI SPIDERLING CARE SHEET 
  Please mist my enclosure/container at least 2x a day. ensure that the cotton plug stays damp as my fruit fly meals like to drink from this. Please change this every 3 days.
  To feed me pull the cotton plug and use the funnel to drop in some flies. I am close to moving on to eating larger meals as I am currently eating the largest fruit flies available. Drosophila Hydei, soon I will stop seeing those as prey and will require something else. please do not feed wild caught insects as these may contain parasites. a good next food will be houseflies, you can buy the pupae from Josh's Frogs or mantisplace etc. smaller crickets are also okay make sure these are eaten right away and never leave them in my container as they like to destroy my web and can bite me. I prefer to eat insects smaller than myself. I also require light to stimulate my appetite as I am diurnal (active during the day) like other jumping spiders.
  If I stop eating try a few things, I like to have very bright light, try moving me to a room with very bright INDIRECT sunlight NEVER PUT ME IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT! Try a different type of insect a housefly, cricket purchased from a pet supply store, smaller wax worm. you can experiment with different feeders. If these fail to stimulate my appetite, I may be getting ready to molt.
  Molting behavior, Hyllus diardi Spiderling care sheet.
  Please mist my enclosure/container at least 2x a day. ensure that the cotton plug stays damp as my fruit fly meals like to drink from this. Please change this every 3 days.
  To feed me pull the cotton plug and use the funnel to drop in some flies. I am close to moving on to eating larger meals as I am currently eating the largest fruit flies available. Drosophila Hydei, soon I will stop seeing those as prey and will require something else. please do not feed wild caught insects as these may contain parasites. a good next food will be houseflies, you can buy the pupae from Josh's Frogs or mantisplace etc. smaller crickets are also okay make sure these are eaten right away and never leave them in my container as they like to destroy my web and can bite me. I prefer to eat insects smaller than myself. I also require light to stimulate my appetite as I am diurnal (active during the day) like other jumping spiders.
  If I stop eating try a few things, I like to have very bright light, try moving me to a room with very bright INDIRECT sunlight NEVER PUT ME IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT! Try a different type of insect a housefly, cricket purchased from a pet supply store, smaller wax worm. you can experiment with different feeders. If these fail to stimulate my appetite, I may be getting ready to molt.
  Molting behavior, spiders will have increased appetite just before going into molt. Then they will stop eating all together. Molts will progressively take longer each time. During a molt please continue to mist the enclosure and mist next to the sack so the spider may take a drink if thirsty. It's very important to disturb the spider as little as possible during this time. After a few days or even weeks you may notice that your spider pushed her old exoskeleton out of the nest. You may see what looks like 2 spiders in her web sack. She will eventually emerge once her new exoskeleton has fully hardened with a ravenous appetite. If this was the sub adult to adult molt and you have a male, you may see a decreased appetite and he may only eat 2x a week. If you have a female she will have a large appetite as her body is now focusing on egg production. She will lay eggs regardless of if they are fertile.
  Your spider should be okay for a bit with the enclosure sent however you should look into the pamphlet about enclosure recommendations. If you have any questions or concerns please contact me at Itsy.bitsys.spiders@gmail.com
• UPDATE! 
• We are no longer selling this at this stage! We felt as though it was more appropriate to wait until they were several months older. This eliminates molts in your care. Every molt is a deadly time to any spider especially these! They take quite awhile to get to this stage. They're currently eating 1/4 banded crickets. They're very close to revealing their gender. 
• They have specific housing requirements! Please don't skimp on this. The best way I have found to accommodate them is with Exo-Terra nano 8x8x8, coco coir substrate, heat mat/pad WITH A THERMOSTAT!!! This serves 2 purposes, it evaporates the water from the substrate and provides necessary humidity and provides the heat they require. They also need a full spectrum light. I have found that feit electric under cabinet lights are perfect. 
• You need to dump about a cup or more of water on your substrate, if you keep it packed up to about the door. I do this to prevent crickets from hiding. Packing it slows the digging down quite a bit. Still thoroughly spray down one side of the enclosure from the top of screen. They love to take a drink from here!
• Stick your mat and plug it in to the thermostat, run the thermostat sensor down the back of the Styrofoam in the slots alloted for this all the way so the tip is touching substrate or glass. After doing this, pack Styrofoam or some type of foam(paper towels if you don't have any of these) into the crevice along the top. I actually modified a few of my Exo-Terra especially for my little ones by hot gluing screen(found at any home repair store or Amazon) around the top. This step prevents you from having to pack foam in back and around the side. 
• I will include some pictures of Millie, a juvenile Diardi modeling it.
• A side by side comparison of one that has the normal screen and the modified version. You can easily replace the old screen on top. I didn't because blocks some light by using both and I have it under a light that isn't as bright as the others